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Recession can't take sparkle out of red carpet

From Monday's Globe and Mail

Well, the dresses certainly weren't downscaled this year.

As proof that Hollywood really exists in a beaded bubble of Balmain and John Galliano, many actresses went full throttle on the razzle dazzle, from Anne Hathaway who sparkled in Armani to Sarah Jessica Parker in an unfortunate pouffy princess frock from Dior Haute Couture.

And diamonds are still a girl's best friend (as most flattering accessory), at least if Kate Winslet, Marion Cotillard and Penelope Cruz are any indication: For them, Chopard was the jeweller of choice while Fred Leighton proved popular for Tilda Swinton and Tina Fey.

Miley Cyrus, first on the red carpet, admitted that her petalled Zuhair Murad dress weighed more than her. "Possibly a hundred thousand pounds," she joked.

Such excess felt gauche, which is not to say that the red carpet needed to become an exercise in austerity. Rather, the biggest hits of Oscar 2009 boasted beautiful draping, ruching and pleating details and went light on the finery. In this category: Amy Adams, Heidi Klum and Evan Rachel Wood.

Surprisingly, the red carpet was awash in red dresses. Conventional wardrobe wisdom suggests this shouldn't work. If the shades are identical, the actress may suffer from floating head syndrome. When different, they clash. Yet there they were: Ms. Adams in crimson Carolina Herrera, Amanda Seyfried in rouge and Ms. Klum in a ravishing fire engine red Roland Mouret slitted, sculpted gown.

Slumdog Millionaire's sweetheart Freida Pinto's Gallian midnight blue gown was among the few successful dark dresses (count Diane Lane's Dolce & Gabbana as another). Angelina Jolie's black dress was less notable than her brilliant green earrings. Expect the cheapie knockoffs in stores next month.

Kate Winslet, who had been scoring hit after effortless hit through the awards show season, jumped the sartorial shark last night. Wearing head-to-toe Yves Saint Laurent with an unmovable undulating up-do, the statement was overthought.Aside from the fresh burst of lilac from Natalie Portman (in Rodarte with Kwiat diamonds), it was Mickey Rourke who offered the most original interpretation of Academy Awards attire. Though his Jean Paul Gauthier ensemble - white tuxedo, black vest and no tie - might earn negative reviews from purists (the disaster of the night went to Jessica Biel, in an unflattering bed-sheet-inspired confusion), he looked authentically dishevelled and every bit comeback chic.

Besides, who could fault a guy wearing a choker with a photo of his recently deceased dog, Loki. The best-actor-nominated Mr. Rourke said, "I'd rather have Loki for another two years than an Oscar."

averner@globeandmail.com

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