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GiveLife.ca

    

PRINT EDITION
Giving thanks for wine
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Trying to think of new ways to dress up your turkey for Thanksgiving? Here are 14 ways to flatter a bird
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By BEPPI CROSARIOL
  
  

Email this article Print this article
Saturday, October 6, 2018 – Page P7

It's almost upon us, that day in October to be grateful for getting to live in such an enlightened, free-thinking country. Yes, cannabis becomes legal in Canada on Oct. 17, and what a party it promises to be. But if you're not much of a pot smoker, then I imagine you'll be celebrating Thanksgiving with the rest of us, Oct. 8.

I at least hope you like wine. I can't imagine Thanksgiving without wine. Last year, I even used some for cooking, to make Tasmanian drunken turkey. It wasn't a whole bird, mind you, just a giant breast. It was in desperate need of a moisture source, so I marinated it in a bottle of dry Tasmanian sparkling wine and subsequently roasted it in the oven as the liquid slowly evaporated. As I recall, I threw in lots of homegrown garlic and herbs for flavour. It wasn't half bad.

The easier way to achieve a moist result with wine is, on the other hand, simply to drink a well-chosen bottle with the turkey regardless of how you cooked it. Think of wine as your no-fuss gravy or sauce. And don't sweat the choice too heavily because turkey, at least when simply roasted, is wine-friendly, period.

The selections here may be hard to come by depending on where you live, but you could consider them rough stylistic pointers. I happen to like lightand medium-bodied reds, such as gamay and pinot noir, with a big Thanksgiving meal, for example, because they're less fatiguing. Then again, a ripe shiraz or grenache can serve as a jammy counterpoint.

BOTTLES TO TRY DOMANE WACHAU TERRASSEN FEDERSPIEL RIESLING 2017, AUSTRIA SCORE: 92 PRICE: $21.95 This is a kinetic, very dry riesling.

Medium-bodied, juicy and mineral-tinged, with flavours of apricot and lime. Brilliantly nervy.

Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.

WILLIAM FÈVRE CHILE ESPINO GRAN CUVÉE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, CHILE SCORE: 92 PRICE: $24.95 Full-bodied, ripe and chunky, with smooth cassis, mint, espresso and a cedary, leathery essence.

The tannins are very fine and well-integrated. Strong performance for the money. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta private stores.

SERGIO ZENATO LUGANA RISERVA 2015, ITALY SCORE: 91 PRICE: $39.95 Here's an outstanding example of a white made from the verdicchio grape (a.k.a. trebbiano di Lugana). It's medium-full and oily, as a rich riserva should be, with a musky aromatic character and flavours of apricot and lemon along with spicy bite. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.

LAVAU TAVEL ROSÉ 2017, FRANCE SCORE: 91 PRICE: $18.95 Cherry-pink in colour, which is par for the course when it comes to rosés from the southern Rhône appellation of Tavel. Medium-full and fleshy, with meaty, ripe flavours suggesting raspberry and apple. Great fruit and fleshy texture. Perfectly tuned acidity.

Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.

FLAT ROCK RIESLING 2016, ONTARIO SCORE: 91 PRICE: $17.95 Slightly sweeter than off-dry yet zippy and smartly balanced. Vibrant lime-doused peaches and green apple. Available in Ontario.

MANCIAT-PONCET MÂCON-CHARNAY 2015, FRANCE SCORE: 90 PRICE: $22.95 Elegant chardonnay and a very good buy for true white Burgundy.

Mid-weight and creamy, with notes of cooked apple, vanilla, toasted nuts and spice. The oak is well-integrated. Available in Ontario.

MASI BROLO CAMPOFIORIN ORO 2014, ITALY SCORE: 90 PRICE: $26.95 Medium-full-bodied and very dry, with a woodsy, tobacco-like essence and note of incense running through flavours of dried cherry, chocolate and espresso.

Available in Ontario at the above price, $27.49 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Manitoba, $25.75 in Quebec, $29.99 in Nova Scotia.

JOIEFARM GAMAY 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA SCORE: 89 PRICE: $24.26 Light-medium-bodied but with lots of stuffing for a gamay. Almost sticky, with flavours of jammy berries and caramel along with smoked meat and earthiness. Available in private British Columbia stores and direct through joiefarm.com.

SHINGLEBACK VIN VALE SHIRAZ 2016, AUSTRALIA SCORE: 88 PRICE: $16.95 Full-bodied, with rich plum and blackberry fruit, chocolate and vanilla supported by a toasty, oaky-spicy character. Good McLaren Vale shiraz for the money. Available in Ontario.

YALUMBA THE STRAPPER GSM 2015, AUSTRALIA SCORE: 88 PRICE: $19.95 A blend of grenache, shiraz and mataro (a.k.a. mourvèdre). Very supple and smooth. As jammy as Smucker's and buffed to a cueball sheen, with notes of cherry, spices, dark-roast coffee and smoked meat. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $22 in Manitoba, $20 in Quebec, $24.99 in Nova Scotia, $26.36 in Newfoundland.

XAVIER CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2016, FRANCE SCORE: 88 PRICE: $17.95 Medium-bodied, this classically styled southern Rhône red glides along with a polished texture until chalky tannins exert dry grip on the finish. Succulent plum and cherry fruit along with peppery spice and a pleasantly bitter backbone. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $22 in Newfoundland.

BURGO VIEJO GARNACHA RIOJA 2017, SPAIN SCORE: 87 PRICE: $14.95 Medium-bodied, with a sweet centre of cheerful cherry fruit, a soft, rounded texture and some spice around the edges. A quaffer that would be at home in a tumbler. Available in Ontario.

MEIOMI CHARDONNAY 2016, CALIFORNIA SCORE: 89 PRICE: $24.95 A generous, California-creamy style of chardonnay with good balance. Silky and buttery, with tropical fruit, toasted nuts and a big vanilla essence. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $30.01 in Saskatchewan, $24.99 in Manitoba, $25 in Quebec, $29.99 in New Brunswick, $29.97 in Newfoundland, $27.98 in Prince Edward Island.

BURROWING OWL ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA SCORE: 90 PRICE: $33.95 Full-bodied, toasty and buttery, with notes of grilled pineapple, vanilla and brown butter. Lavishly oaked yet with a good spine of fresh acidity. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, at private stores and direct through burrowingowlwine.ca.

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A key component of every holiday dinner is wine selection, whether you are using it for cooking or drinking. ISTOCK


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